With winter raging in the Northern hemisphere and the tropics as balmy as ever, choosing the temperature of your holiday is as easy as turning a dial. There’s no better time of year to pick and choose the temperature you want when you holiday in Asia – and all within a few hours’ flight time. Fancy something cold and fresh? Can do. Something more tropical and steamy? Also possible.
-20 degrees: HARBIN, CHINA
If you like it cold – very cold – Harbin is the place for you. Built by the Russians at the endof the 19th century when the railway was being laid from Moscow to Beijing, Harbin is an architecturally fascinating place: with a history of Jewish and European settlement,it looks more like Melbourne than Manchuria. Add to that the blanket of snow coveringthe town at this time of year, as well as the world famous Ice Sculpture festival featuring ice sculptors from all over the world, and you have a recipe for an intriguingly different vacation.
Where to stay:
To get a feel for Harbin’s history, the Modern Hotel – built in 1906 by a Russian Jew – isthe only place to consider. In the middle of the charming Old Quarter, the Modern is a quirky yet perfectly comfortable choice, with Harbin’s most popular 101-year-old icecream parlour attached. Tel: +86 451 8461 5846
Where to eat:
Russian restaurants abound, serving borscht, Russian sausage and Leba rye bread. Butfor a unique experience, head to Russian Park, where you can enjoy a steaming Chinesehotpot in a restaurant built entirely out of ice.
2 degrees: SAPPORO, JAPAN
Cold enough for the Winter Olympics, yet offering a warm welcome at the many innsand izakayas dotting the city streets, Sapporo is charming come winter. With its famousSnow Festival, deliciously hearty regional Japanese cuisine and famous brewery – a beer so good they named a town after it – winter is the right time to sample the delights ofJapan’s most famous northern city.
Where to stay:
The Ginrinso is one of Japan’s finest examples of traditional ryokan inns. Situated abovethe city in the mountains, with spectacular views and outdoor hot springs, the Ginrinso doesn’t come cheap, but is worth every penny to experience the art of the ryokan done properly. japaneseguesthouses.com/db/sapporo/ginrinso
Where to eat:
The Sapporo Brewery – a must visit – features a superb restaurant, offering a deliciousrange of food, Japanese and German, that complements their delicious brew. It is a fascinating insight into the history of Japanese brewing and the German pioneers whobrought brewing to this area.
8 degrees: HANGZHOU, CHINA
With its picture-perfect location on the West Lake and impossibly beautiful avenues linedby weeping willows, Hangzhou in winter – all mist and silver skies – is beautifully moody destination.
Where to stay:
The West Lake (Xihu) State Guest Hotel, a former mansion on the shores of the lake, is asbeautiful as hotels come. A 100-year-old construction oozing history and character – butsacrificing nothing in luxury and amenities – the Xihu will have you composing poetry andwriting calligraphy praising its beauty in no time. Tel: +86 571 8797 9889
Where to eat:
Hangzhou cuisine relies on vinegary spices and meats to create hearty meals – perfect forthis time of year. The Louwailou Restaurant is one of the best of many in the city, servingclassic Hangzhou cuisine on a beautiful bridge over the lake: fresh West Lake fish in vinegarsauce, Aunt Song’s Fish Broth and Dragon Well Tea & Shrimps are just a few of the manydelights on offer.
16 degrees: MACAU, CHINA
These days, it’s better known as Vegas on the Pearl River Delta, but 500 years of colonial history isn’t so easily erased: there’s still much of old Portugal to discover in Macau. Wander the winding cobbled streets, marvel at the gorgeous old houses, stop off at the many cafes and restaurants fora vinho verde and a bacalhau, wonder at the cute Portuguese letterboxes and street signs. If the Brits across the river were in Hong Kong for reasons of commerce, the Portuguese must have hada different motive altogether: this place was designed for relaxation.
Where to stay:
Converted from an old Portuguese fort, with six-foot-thick walls and overlooking the innerharbour, the Pousada de Santiago is the best place to stay to get a feel for Macau’s history.Beautiful old antique furniture in the rooms, ornate decoration and a lovely outdoor terracemake this a little piece of Lisbon in the South China Sea. saotiago.com.mo
Where to eat:
On pretty Hac Sa beach, Senor Fernando has been serving up the best Portuguese food –some would say the best food full stop – in the region. In this elegant yet laid-back beachsideeatery, you can feast on roast suckling pig and salted cod rice, washed down with generousamounts of wine from the 100% Portuguese selection.
20 degrees: HANOI, VIETNAM
Winter is the best time to enjoy the Vietnamese centre of style, when the population bringsout its best Parisian boho-chic outfits. Stylish restaurants, beautiful bars, magnificentmonuments and the hauntingly serene West Lake are just some of many attractions. Hirea moped, brave the traffic, and spend the days scooting through the leafy boulevards,discovering the many gems hidden in this most satisfying of cities.
Where to stay:
For a sense of place in Hanoi, nothing beats the Sofitel Metropole. A colonial Frenchstructure as old as Hanoi itself, the Metropole exudes Gallic style while enveloping you in trueluxury. accorhotels-asia.com
Where to eat:
It’s not Vietnamese, and it has nothing to do with French history, but La Salsa tapas bar, inthe shadow of Notre Dame Cathedral, is a superb place to spend an evening with a glass.
24 degrees: LUANG PRABANG, LAOS
Winters are mesmerising in LP: golden light, perfumed air and a temperature a few degreescooler than the customary sweltering heat. In this soporific town, days are filled by cyclingaround the temples with frequent stops in shady cafes for iced lemon teas, before retiring to a spafor a two-hour massage in the afternoon, finishing in time for a Beer Lao by the river at sunset.
Where to stay:
Maison Souvannaphoum is a converted Prince’s palace, renovated stylishly by the BanyanTree. Spend your time under the fans in the café with a fresh coffee, or lounge by the pooland watch the palm trees sway, framed by the bright blue winter sky. coloursofangsana.com
Where to eat:
Café Ban Wat Sene, run by a happily exiled Frenchman, epitomises the Laotian mix ofFrench class with laid-back Indochinese charm. A welcome oasis of shade during the day, astylish bolthole at night.
28 degrees: PAI, THAILAND
Make the most of the all-too-brief Thai winter by heading up north. Pai – a small bohemiantown an hour or two west of Chiang Mai – manages to retain its backpacker (sorry,independent traveller) roots, while adding more and more upmarket accommodation optionsevery month. Situated in highland territory, nights can get chilly, but the local Thai whiskywill warm the cockles of your heart, and many other places besides.
Where to stay:
Rim Pai Cottage captures the essence of the new Pai: stylish but not slick, comfortable butnot corporate. Beautiful wooden houses (including one tree house) with lovely polishedfloors and stylish bathrooms: after a stay here, you’ll be looking for nearby land and askingfor the architects’ drawings. rimpaicottage.com
Where to eat:
Pai Burger Stall begs the question: is the world’s best burger in New York? Chicago? Philadelphia? No, it’s here at this tiny shack on Pai’s main walking street, across theroad from the temple. Pull up one of the six stools, order a Chang beer, and make yourselfcomfortable while the owner – herself an escapee from Bangkok’s chaos – rustles up the best burger and chunky chips you’ll ever have.
32 degrees: KOH YAO, THAILAND
All of Thailand is beautiful in the winter months: the rainy season has ended, the air is fresh, the land is green and the sky is blue. The South is no exception, and for an example oftropical bliss, you’d be hard pressed to find something better than Koh Yao. Only an hour east of Phuket by boat, yet a million miles away from the bars and shopping, Koh Yao is where yougo when you’ve already been away from it all, but still want to go further.
Where to stay:
Koh Yao Resort is Robinson Crusoe meets Giorgio Armani: undeniably basic and open-to the-elements bungalows (think roof but no walls), yet with an understated sense of style thatcan be hard to find in this part of the world.
Where to eat:
You can eat in the resort while gazing out to sea – something of which you might possibly never tire – or you can hire a motorcycle and go scouting for one of the many small Thaifamily restaurants serving delicious fresh seafood, expertly cooked.
36 degrees: PERTH, AUSTRALIA
If heat is your thing, fly south for winter: the most isolated capital city in the world is at itshottest this time of year. Burning sun and noonday temperatures of 40 degrees – sometimes more – are common; but watching the sun sink below the Indian Ocean as you are fanned bythe cooling sea breeze, makes it hard to imagine being anywhere else.
Where to stay:
The Cottesloe Beach Hotel is situated in Perth’s most glamorous beachside district, withbars and cafes in every direction and the astonishingly clear waters of Cottesloe Beach justacross the road. cottesloebeachhotel.com.au
Where to eat:
Fremantle’s boutique brewery hotel, the Sail & Anchor, offers a modern take on classicAussie pub grub: Asian-influenced gastronomic delights which taste all the better when accompanied by one of the mouth-watering selection of boutique brews.
This article first appeared in Lifestyle + Travel magazine.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Beer'd trimmer.
Last year was a tough year. And, before getting into the serious business of starting 2008, you’d be forgiven if you were thinking of taking a short breather. A breather with a nice, cold, refreshing beverage, naturally. The best places in the region to enjoy the amber nectar:
Samui: The Cliff
No matter where you’re reading this, whether it be within a two-hour radius of Samui in Singapore or Bangkok, or further afield in Europe or America, your mission is the same. Drop what you’re doing, book a ticket to Samui, and upon arrival make your way straight to The Cliff. Even if you fly from Anchorage, coming to Samui for the sole purpose of enjoying a cold Heineken at The Cliff would be a thoroughly sensible expedition. As the sun rolls slowly overhead, turning the sky from a bright blue to a gorgeous deep red, an evening spent here in the company of several green bottles will be one of the highlights of any trip to Thailand. Situated on top of a cliff overlooking the ocean with a feeling of glamour that would not be out of place in Amalfi, The Cliff gets six stars on the atmosphere scale.
Dubai: The Left Bank
A French-named bar in an Arabian-themed development in Dubai might not be the first place you would expect to make it on this list. But fear not. Particularly at this time of the year, when the weather is utterly gorgeous, The Left Bank is a shoo-in to any list of watering holes. With the bright Arabian sun reflecting off the water and onto the fresh golden frothy pints being carried directly to your table by the charming Filipina waitress, trust us: your wellbeing level will be off the charts. Stylish, atmospheric and with an international clientele that gives the place energy and intrigue, the Left Bank should be top of the To Do List of any Dubai visitor.
Bangkok: The Old Pra Athit Pier
Visitors to Bangkok who find they’re unable to pull themselves away from the gravitational pull of Siam and Sukhumvit are missing out on the whole raison d’etre of the city: the river. When you’re on the River of Kings, whether it be on a maritime vessel or simply a well-positioned eatery on the banks, you get a feel for Bangkok’s birthplace, and it suddenly begins to make more sense. The Old Pra Athit Pier is a relatively new addition to the long list of waterside establishments but exudes all of the long-lasting charm of a Raffles or Eastern & Oriental. Sit at the long bar under slowly whirling fans and order a draught Chang from the barman, enjoy the breeze from the river, and you’ll find it impossible to remove yourself from the barstool before closing time.
Hong Kong: South Bay
Nobody needs any introduction to the glitzy bars of Lan Kwai Fong or Soho. Hollywood Road and the area around the escalator are packed with quirky and fashionable places to imbibe. But for Hong Kong’s most relaxing place to lift a cold bottle to your lips, gravitate away from the urban surrounds to the beaches on the south side of the island. In secluded South Bay, two beaches around from Repulse Bay, you’ll find a café. Nothing fancy, nothing spectacular, just a place on the roof of the building where the lifeguards store their equipment. Grab a San Miguel from the fridge, pop it open and enjoy one of the best views Hong Kong has to offer: the green mountains behind, the beach and the islands in front. Stay until the sun sinks behind Lamma Island and you’ll have enjoyed one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets.
Singapore: Toa Payoh Hawker Centre
Singapore these days is usually mentioned in the same breath as slick, cool, modern, stylish. To hell with all that. Well, before Dempsey Road and Clarke Quay, Singaporeans in the know were already drinking in cool surrounds of a different kind. Toa Payoh Hawker Centre, designed as part of Singapore’s first new town in ambitiously modernist 1960s style, is a superb place to chug back a few Tigers surrounded by clean brutalist architecture and unremitting straight lines. And the food from the neighbouring hawker stalls – spicy chilli stingray, hokkien fried noodles, perfectly grilled satay – provide a perfect accompaniment to the ice-cold amber liquid.
Hanoi: Tapas
A few glasses of Stella into your drinking session at Tapas, you’ll most certainly be in ‘where the hell am I’ territory. The authentically worn Spanish feel, the view of the Notre Dame cathedral out of the window, the elegant scooters parked neatly on the sidewalk under the spreading flame trees… if, in your beery haze, you get the impression you’ve been magically transported back to Europe, you’ll be forgiven. In a city with many excellent places for a beer, including the countless Bia Hoi stalls, Tapas is one of the very best.
Shanghai: Cottons
Shanghai presents a challenge for the professional archivist of drinking places. Would it be M at the Bund, with its glorious views of the Huangpu River and the countless Chinese flags fluttering in the evening breeze? Would it be Faye Wong’s stunning rooftop bar in Suzhou Creek (appropriately situated on a 1930s-built Czech Brewery)? Perhaps, perhaps. But for this particular list, Cottons is Shanghai’s representative. In the cosy neighbourhood vibe of Anjing Lu, Cottons is far and away the place for a comfortable few beers among a relaxed crowd and staff who always have time to crack an amusing back-translated witticism. Knock back a few Tsingtaos – either in the gorgeous garden in the warmer months, or inside by the roaring fireplace inside the beautiful old European villa. Every time this particular writer is in Shanghai, he finds himself drawn to Cottons for at least a couple of happy hour beers almost every evening, even if there are different plans for the rest of the night.
Luang Prabang: Café Ban Wat Sene
The stylish French owners of this place could franchise the idea in a hundred cities and be multi-millionaires overnight. But the fact that they haven’t, makes Café Ban Wat Sene all the more special. A sort of unpolished, unfinished, unrefined feel, which gives you the impression that it’s been here since at least the colonial period. A shadowy, cool interior and a few tables scattered around the pavement overlooking the street. And a mixed clientele of long-term residents, well heeled and bohemian travellers only adds to the charm. There’s a selection of beers here: but only one possible choice. When in Laos, it has to be Beer Lao.
Siem Reap: FCC
In Siem Reap, where else could it have been? A crowd drawn from all four corners of the earth. The FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) is a stunning architectural environment. A view of the nightly Cambodian promenade as they make their way along the riverbanks, lit by ornate French-era streetlamps. And accompanying food that goes perfectly with the frosty one-dollar happy hour Tigers. Angkor is one of the world’s great travel destinations. But you can’t be looking at temples 24 hours a day. As a must-do when in Cambodia, this should definitely be right up there with the Bayon and Ta Phrom.
This article first appeared in Lifestyle + travel magazine.
Samui: The Cliff
No matter where you’re reading this, whether it be within a two-hour radius of Samui in Singapore or Bangkok, or further afield in Europe or America, your mission is the same. Drop what you’re doing, book a ticket to Samui, and upon arrival make your way straight to The Cliff. Even if you fly from Anchorage, coming to Samui for the sole purpose of enjoying a cold Heineken at The Cliff would be a thoroughly sensible expedition. As the sun rolls slowly overhead, turning the sky from a bright blue to a gorgeous deep red, an evening spent here in the company of several green bottles will be one of the highlights of any trip to Thailand. Situated on top of a cliff overlooking the ocean with a feeling of glamour that would not be out of place in Amalfi, The Cliff gets six stars on the atmosphere scale.
Dubai: The Left Bank
A French-named bar in an Arabian-themed development in Dubai might not be the first place you would expect to make it on this list. But fear not. Particularly at this time of the year, when the weather is utterly gorgeous, The Left Bank is a shoo-in to any list of watering holes. With the bright Arabian sun reflecting off the water and onto the fresh golden frothy pints being carried directly to your table by the charming Filipina waitress, trust us: your wellbeing level will be off the charts. Stylish, atmospheric and with an international clientele that gives the place energy and intrigue, the Left Bank should be top of the To Do List of any Dubai visitor.
Bangkok: The Old Pra Athit Pier
Visitors to Bangkok who find they’re unable to pull themselves away from the gravitational pull of Siam and Sukhumvit are missing out on the whole raison d’etre of the city: the river. When you’re on the River of Kings, whether it be on a maritime vessel or simply a well-positioned eatery on the banks, you get a feel for Bangkok’s birthplace, and it suddenly begins to make more sense. The Old Pra Athit Pier is a relatively new addition to the long list of waterside establishments but exudes all of the long-lasting charm of a Raffles or Eastern & Oriental. Sit at the long bar under slowly whirling fans and order a draught Chang from the barman, enjoy the breeze from the river, and you’ll find it impossible to remove yourself from the barstool before closing time.
Hong Kong: South Bay
Nobody needs any introduction to the glitzy bars of Lan Kwai Fong or Soho. Hollywood Road and the area around the escalator are packed with quirky and fashionable places to imbibe. But for Hong Kong’s most relaxing place to lift a cold bottle to your lips, gravitate away from the urban surrounds to the beaches on the south side of the island. In secluded South Bay, two beaches around from Repulse Bay, you’ll find a café. Nothing fancy, nothing spectacular, just a place on the roof of the building where the lifeguards store their equipment. Grab a San Miguel from the fridge, pop it open and enjoy one of the best views Hong Kong has to offer: the green mountains behind, the beach and the islands in front. Stay until the sun sinks behind Lamma Island and you’ll have enjoyed one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets.
Singapore: Toa Payoh Hawker Centre
Singapore these days is usually mentioned in the same breath as slick, cool, modern, stylish. To hell with all that. Well, before Dempsey Road and Clarke Quay, Singaporeans in the know were already drinking in cool surrounds of a different kind. Toa Payoh Hawker Centre, designed as part of Singapore’s first new town in ambitiously modernist 1960s style, is a superb place to chug back a few Tigers surrounded by clean brutalist architecture and unremitting straight lines. And the food from the neighbouring hawker stalls – spicy chilli stingray, hokkien fried noodles, perfectly grilled satay – provide a perfect accompaniment to the ice-cold amber liquid.
Hanoi: Tapas
A few glasses of Stella into your drinking session at Tapas, you’ll most certainly be in ‘where the hell am I’ territory. The authentically worn Spanish feel, the view of the Notre Dame cathedral out of the window, the elegant scooters parked neatly on the sidewalk under the spreading flame trees… if, in your beery haze, you get the impression you’ve been magically transported back to Europe, you’ll be forgiven. In a city with many excellent places for a beer, including the countless Bia Hoi stalls, Tapas is one of the very best.
Shanghai: Cottons
Shanghai presents a challenge for the professional archivist of drinking places. Would it be M at the Bund, with its glorious views of the Huangpu River and the countless Chinese flags fluttering in the evening breeze? Would it be Faye Wong’s stunning rooftop bar in Suzhou Creek (appropriately situated on a 1930s-built Czech Brewery)? Perhaps, perhaps. But for this particular list, Cottons is Shanghai’s representative. In the cosy neighbourhood vibe of Anjing Lu, Cottons is far and away the place for a comfortable few beers among a relaxed crowd and staff who always have time to crack an amusing back-translated witticism. Knock back a few Tsingtaos – either in the gorgeous garden in the warmer months, or inside by the roaring fireplace inside the beautiful old European villa. Every time this particular writer is in Shanghai, he finds himself drawn to Cottons for at least a couple of happy hour beers almost every evening, even if there are different plans for the rest of the night.
Luang Prabang: Café Ban Wat Sene
The stylish French owners of this place could franchise the idea in a hundred cities and be multi-millionaires overnight. But the fact that they haven’t, makes Café Ban Wat Sene all the more special. A sort of unpolished, unfinished, unrefined feel, which gives you the impression that it’s been here since at least the colonial period. A shadowy, cool interior and a few tables scattered around the pavement overlooking the street. And a mixed clientele of long-term residents, well heeled and bohemian travellers only adds to the charm. There’s a selection of beers here: but only one possible choice. When in Laos, it has to be Beer Lao.
Siem Reap: FCC
In Siem Reap, where else could it have been? A crowd drawn from all four corners of the earth. The FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) is a stunning architectural environment. A view of the nightly Cambodian promenade as they make their way along the riverbanks, lit by ornate French-era streetlamps. And accompanying food that goes perfectly with the frosty one-dollar happy hour Tigers. Angkor is one of the world’s great travel destinations. But you can’t be looking at temples 24 hours a day. As a must-do when in Cambodia, this should definitely be right up there with the Bayon and Ta Phrom.
This article first appeared in Lifestyle + travel magazine.
Altitude slickness.
Because most of them started as ports, Asia’s big cities are generally low-lying affairs, situated near sea level. But the region has plenty of opportunities for elevation to loftier climes.
From the equatorial highlands of Java to the celestial mountains of China and everywhere in between, more and more of Asia’s high-altitude areas are being developed for tourism – some rough and ready, but some with levels of luxury as lofty as their geography. All you have to ask yourself is: how high do you want to go?
1,140 METRES
Phonsavan, Laos
At just over a kilometre above sea level, Phonsavan doesn’t exactly qualify as truly alpine, but the higher altitude does give a fresh feel to the morning air in contrast to the plains below. The town itself is charming enough, with ample opportunities for alfresco Beer Lao consumption. Nearby, the Plain of Jars is one of Asia’s last unsolved mysteries, with hundreds of ancient pots scattered through the landscape.
Where to Stay
The French-run Phu Pha Daeng (Tel: +856 61 312 044), otherwise known as Auberge de Plaine des Jarres, is Phonsavan’s best option in the style stakes, with lovely stone and wooden cabins just outside the centre of town.
1,460 METRES
Puncak, Indonesia
On the road between Bogor and Bandung, Puncak is a picturesque village in the Javanese highlands, sitting between two spectacular mountains. The scents of coffee and cinnamon drift on the air from the many surrounding plantations, and the air has a distinctly fresh feel, helped along by the fact that the sun disappears behind the mountain early in the afternoon. Puncak itself is quiet and charming, but for day trips, Bogor’s world-famous botanical gardens are nearby, as is the incredible Taman Safari Indonesia.
Where to Stay
The quirky Puncak Pass Resort (puncakpassresort.com) is a property in the ‘if it’s in the mountains, build it Swiss-style’-school. Authentically Helvetian cottages with sloped roofs overlook the valley below, and all that’s lacking is the fondue.
1,620 METRES
Sapa, Vietnam
North from Hanoi, on the last stop of the train line before it hits China, Sapa is one of Vietnam’s highest points. Its altitude means temperatures can approach freezing, with a blanket of fog descending every evening to create a mysterious, otherworldly feel. The brick-and-tile houses are straight out of Tuscany, the minority hilltribe treks are fascinating, and the steaming Vietnamese coffee never tasted as good as it does in the thin mountain air here.
Where to Stay
The Victoria Sapa Resort (victoriahotels-asia.com) is a gorgeous spot. Sip mulled wine by roaring log fires, sit in the open air with a hot chocolate around a big bonfire, or stay in the comfort of your room and watch the mists swirling over the valley.
1,650 METRES
Baguio, Philippines
The garden city of the Philippines, with more public parks and gardens than the rest of the country put together, Baguio makes the most of its out-of-the-way location. Pine-scented air, darling little inns and restaurants overlooking forested valleys, and an outdoorsy, back-to-nature vibe makes this a lovely spot to get away from the sensory overload that is Manila.
Where to Stay
Historical Camp John Hay Manor (campjohnhay.com) is perhaps Baguio’s most stylish place to stay, and also its most environmentally friendly, with numerous good governance awards to its name. Built on a mountain on top of another mountain, the Manor boasts spectacular views; the feeling of being above it all is palpable.
1,782 METRES
Doi Ang Khang, Chiang Mai, Thailand
The areas in far north Thailand abutting the Burmese and Laotian borders are a mountain-lovers’ paradise. Peaks soar to over two km above sea level, nighttime temperatures plum-met to low single figures, and rosy-cheeked ethnic minorities give the area an exotic, unfamiliar feel. Perfect for motoring trips whether on four wheels or two, the winding mountain roads north of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai offer some of Asia’s most accessible and enjoyable high-altitude holidays.
Where to Stay
The Angkhang Nature Resort, (amari.com/angkhang) run by the Amari group, offers individual villas on the side of a mountain, wedged into a valley less than a kilometre from the Burmese border. If the modern fare on offer at the restaurants doesn’t appeal, you can always walk down to the market and snack on Burmese and Chinese cuisine in one of the many restaurants set up by migrants from over the border.
1,829 METRES
Cameron Highlands, Malaysia
Malaysia’s airy Cameron Highlands started life as a retreat for the British escaping the heat of the capital, and even now the feel of the place reflects it colonial origins. Mock-Tudor houses, strawberries and cream, and steaming pots of tea still define the atmosphere of this hill station. But there are many more modern delights too. Rolling golf courses, jungle walks and luxurious spas will all fill some time in during daylight hours while you wait for nightfall and the chance to sit around the fireplace sipping red wine.
Where to Stay
Built in the 1930s, The Smokehouse Hotel & Restaurant By The Golf Course (thesmokehouse.com.my/ch.htm) captures the essence of the High-lands, with gorgeously twee rooms and a lovely rose garden where you can sit outside and take tea. If you’re feeling homesick, you can always call home from the red British telephone box outside.
1,923 METRES
Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka
There’s not much that Nuwara Eliya doesn’t offer: culture, history, and physical activity in the national park trails surrounding the area. A highlight is the St Clair tea centre: a fascinating interactive museum where you can learn the history of the area and about life on the tea plantations. When you’ve had enough education for one day, retire to the terrace and have a cup of the steaming brew while watching the sun set over the plains below.
Where to Stay
The Tea Factory, (aitkenspencehotels.com/teafactory) a tasteful hotel built from – you guessed it – a former tea factory, offers the coolest and most stylish accommodation in the hill country. Nice touches in the rooms remind you of the building’s provenance, and the location in the middle of a tea estate is simply gorgeous.
2,370 METRES
Ayubia, Pakistan
Only 90 km north of Islamabad, Ayubia is one of many popular holiday resorts in the mountains of northern Pakistan. Snowbound in winter, fresh and pine-scented in summer, nearby attractions include Khanspur, the beautiful small town where many of Pakistan’s elite have their country homes, and Murree, the hill resort famous for being the only town still in possession of a working brewery in overwhelmingly dry Pakistan.
Where to Stay
The Ayubia Motel (Tel: +92 (0) 992 359 004) is much more salubrious than its name suggests; ‘motel’ is simply the word Pakistanis use for any hotel out of major towns is a great base from which to explore the surrounding mountain district, or to use as a stopover point for further exploration north.
2,134 METRES
Darjeeling, India
Backed up against the Himalayas, India’s northern border is one long mountain range. There are dozens of charming resorts; but the queen of them all is Darjeeling, the town where the famous tea industry is centred. Flowering gardens, elegant tea estates, strolls along the stately Mall in the middle of town, and the views of Mt Everest in the distance are enough to detain most people for a few days. For the more adventurous, mountain biking, hot-air ballooning and elephant rides along mountain trails are also on the list of options.
Where to Stay
The Windermere Hotel, (Tel: +91 354 54041) created from an old gentleman’s lodge formerly used to house tea planters, epitomises the genteel atmos-phere of the hill station. Cosy rooms protect you against the chilly mountain mist and hearty breakfasts set you up for a day of trekking, strolling or comfy lounging.
5,600 METRES
Lijiang, China
Lijiang is serious alpine territory, with the nearby Jade Dragon Snow Mountain soaring over five kilometres above sea level. Inhabited by the colourful and horse-loving Naxi people, the wide open plains of Lijiang and the nearly-Tibetan style temples dotted throughout the area make for a culturally satisfying trip, while the nascent Chinese ski resort offers some respectable slopes.
Where to Stay
Zen Garden Hotel, (zengardenhotel.com) situated in the old town section of Lijiang, will give you the best feel for the history and culture of the area. In an old Naxi lanehouse, but renovated beautifully and with lovely staff, the Zen Garden is a gem.
This article first appeared in Lifestyle + Travel magazine.
From the equatorial highlands of Java to the celestial mountains of China and everywhere in between, more and more of Asia’s high-altitude areas are being developed for tourism – some rough and ready, but some with levels of luxury as lofty as their geography. All you have to ask yourself is: how high do you want to go?
1,140 METRES
Phonsavan, Laos
At just over a kilometre above sea level, Phonsavan doesn’t exactly qualify as truly alpine, but the higher altitude does give a fresh feel to the morning air in contrast to the plains below. The town itself is charming enough, with ample opportunities for alfresco Beer Lao consumption. Nearby, the Plain of Jars is one of Asia’s last unsolved mysteries, with hundreds of ancient pots scattered through the landscape.
Where to Stay
The French-run Phu Pha Daeng (Tel: +856 61 312 044), otherwise known as Auberge de Plaine des Jarres, is Phonsavan’s best option in the style stakes, with lovely stone and wooden cabins just outside the centre of town.
1,460 METRES
Puncak, Indonesia
On the road between Bogor and Bandung, Puncak is a picturesque village in the Javanese highlands, sitting between two spectacular mountains. The scents of coffee and cinnamon drift on the air from the many surrounding plantations, and the air has a distinctly fresh feel, helped along by the fact that the sun disappears behind the mountain early in the afternoon. Puncak itself is quiet and charming, but for day trips, Bogor’s world-famous botanical gardens are nearby, as is the incredible Taman Safari Indonesia.
Where to Stay
The quirky Puncak Pass Resort (puncakpassresort.com) is a property in the ‘if it’s in the mountains, build it Swiss-style’-school. Authentically Helvetian cottages with sloped roofs overlook the valley below, and all that’s lacking is the fondue.
1,620 METRES
Sapa, Vietnam
North from Hanoi, on the last stop of the train line before it hits China, Sapa is one of Vietnam’s highest points. Its altitude means temperatures can approach freezing, with a blanket of fog descending every evening to create a mysterious, otherworldly feel. The brick-and-tile houses are straight out of Tuscany, the minority hilltribe treks are fascinating, and the steaming Vietnamese coffee never tasted as good as it does in the thin mountain air here.
Where to Stay
The Victoria Sapa Resort (victoriahotels-asia.com) is a gorgeous spot. Sip mulled wine by roaring log fires, sit in the open air with a hot chocolate around a big bonfire, or stay in the comfort of your room and watch the mists swirling over the valley.
1,650 METRES
Baguio, Philippines
The garden city of the Philippines, with more public parks and gardens than the rest of the country put together, Baguio makes the most of its out-of-the-way location. Pine-scented air, darling little inns and restaurants overlooking forested valleys, and an outdoorsy, back-to-nature vibe makes this a lovely spot to get away from the sensory overload that is Manila.
Where to Stay
Historical Camp John Hay Manor (campjohnhay.com) is perhaps Baguio’s most stylish place to stay, and also its most environmentally friendly, with numerous good governance awards to its name. Built on a mountain on top of another mountain, the Manor boasts spectacular views; the feeling of being above it all is palpable.
1,782 METRES
Doi Ang Khang, Chiang Mai, Thailand
The areas in far north Thailand abutting the Burmese and Laotian borders are a mountain-lovers’ paradise. Peaks soar to over two km above sea level, nighttime temperatures plum-met to low single figures, and rosy-cheeked ethnic minorities give the area an exotic, unfamiliar feel. Perfect for motoring trips whether on four wheels or two, the winding mountain roads north of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai offer some of Asia’s most accessible and enjoyable high-altitude holidays.
Where to Stay
The Angkhang Nature Resort, (amari.com/angkhang) run by the Amari group, offers individual villas on the side of a mountain, wedged into a valley less than a kilometre from the Burmese border. If the modern fare on offer at the restaurants doesn’t appeal, you can always walk down to the market and snack on Burmese and Chinese cuisine in one of the many restaurants set up by migrants from over the border.
1,829 METRES
Cameron Highlands, Malaysia
Malaysia’s airy Cameron Highlands started life as a retreat for the British escaping the heat of the capital, and even now the feel of the place reflects it colonial origins. Mock-Tudor houses, strawberries and cream, and steaming pots of tea still define the atmosphere of this hill station. But there are many more modern delights too. Rolling golf courses, jungle walks and luxurious spas will all fill some time in during daylight hours while you wait for nightfall and the chance to sit around the fireplace sipping red wine.
Where to Stay
Built in the 1930s, The Smokehouse Hotel & Restaurant By The Golf Course (thesmokehouse.com.my/ch.htm) captures the essence of the High-lands, with gorgeously twee rooms and a lovely rose garden where you can sit outside and take tea. If you’re feeling homesick, you can always call home from the red British telephone box outside.
1,923 METRES
Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka
There’s not much that Nuwara Eliya doesn’t offer: culture, history, and physical activity in the national park trails surrounding the area. A highlight is the St Clair tea centre: a fascinating interactive museum where you can learn the history of the area and about life on the tea plantations. When you’ve had enough education for one day, retire to the terrace and have a cup of the steaming brew while watching the sun set over the plains below.
Where to Stay
The Tea Factory, (aitkenspencehotels.com/teafactory) a tasteful hotel built from – you guessed it – a former tea factory, offers the coolest and most stylish accommodation in the hill country. Nice touches in the rooms remind you of the building’s provenance, and the location in the middle of a tea estate is simply gorgeous.
2,370 METRES
Ayubia, Pakistan
Only 90 km north of Islamabad, Ayubia is one of many popular holiday resorts in the mountains of northern Pakistan. Snowbound in winter, fresh and pine-scented in summer, nearby attractions include Khanspur, the beautiful small town where many of Pakistan’s elite have their country homes, and Murree, the hill resort famous for being the only town still in possession of a working brewery in overwhelmingly dry Pakistan.
Where to Stay
The Ayubia Motel (Tel: +92 (0) 992 359 004) is much more salubrious than its name suggests; ‘motel’ is simply the word Pakistanis use for any hotel out of major towns is a great base from which to explore the surrounding mountain district, or to use as a stopover point for further exploration north.
2,134 METRES
Darjeeling, India
Backed up against the Himalayas, India’s northern border is one long mountain range. There are dozens of charming resorts; but the queen of them all is Darjeeling, the town where the famous tea industry is centred. Flowering gardens, elegant tea estates, strolls along the stately Mall in the middle of town, and the views of Mt Everest in the distance are enough to detain most people for a few days. For the more adventurous, mountain biking, hot-air ballooning and elephant rides along mountain trails are also on the list of options.
Where to Stay
The Windermere Hotel, (Tel: +91 354 54041) created from an old gentleman’s lodge formerly used to house tea planters, epitomises the genteel atmos-phere of the hill station. Cosy rooms protect you against the chilly mountain mist and hearty breakfasts set you up for a day of trekking, strolling or comfy lounging.
5,600 METRES
Lijiang, China
Lijiang is serious alpine territory, with the nearby Jade Dragon Snow Mountain soaring over five kilometres above sea level. Inhabited by the colourful and horse-loving Naxi people, the wide open plains of Lijiang and the nearly-Tibetan style temples dotted throughout the area make for a culturally satisfying trip, while the nascent Chinese ski resort offers some respectable slopes.
Where to Stay
Zen Garden Hotel, (zengardenhotel.com) situated in the old town section of Lijiang, will give you the best feel for the history and culture of the area. In an old Naxi lanehouse, but renovated beautifully and with lovely staff, the Zen Garden is a gem.
This article first appeared in Lifestyle + Travel magazine.
Blogged with the Flock Browser
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)